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Full Description
Choosing the right paddle
Unlike canoe paddles, selecting a kayak paddle is more art than science. What you can count on is that the right kayak paddles will be light, strong, and comfortable for your paddling style and different paddling conditions.
As a reference, here are the widths of typical kayak types:
Recreational – width of 26" to 30". These boats are generally short and wide.
Touring – width of 22" to 25". These boats are typically longer and narrower with more capacity
Performance – width of 19" to 22". These boats are also long, with a narrow hull.
Whitewater – The width of the boat is not as critical as the paddlers’ height.
If you’re a recreational paddler the kayak’s width will be the most important factor for paddle selection. If you’re touring or sea kayaking, your paddling style and physical size will play more heavily in your decision.
Wider boats require longer paddles. Be sure to measure your boat’s width at its widest point before shopping for a paddle.
If your kayak’s width were the only consideration in sizing your paddle, you could choose a paddle based solely on the kayak width table.
The length of your torso is a critical factor in sizing a kayak paddle. Here’s a simple and accurate way to measure your torso. Sit up straight – don’t slouch – on a flat chair. Measure the distance from the surface of the chair between your legs to your nose.
When you’re in the field, an easy way to see whether you have the right length paddle is to hold out a paddle horizontally with your elbows bent at a 90 degree angle. If your hands are about two-thirds of the way between the center of the shaft and the shoulder of the blade (the point where the blade meets the shaft), you have the right length of paddle. Again, always take stroke angle and boat width into consideration. Your level of fitness is also important.
More athletic paddlers generally want a shorter paddle with a wider blade for the extra horsepower that it provides.
Heavier or taller paddlers generally prefer a longer paddle with a wide blade to move their weight efficiently.
Smaller paddlers, those who are not into speed or those with wrist or shoulder issues typically choose blades with less surface area; those that want more power and desire a bigger “bite” on the water go for larger blades.
Remember, too, that if you have small hands, you’ll do far better with a paddle that has a small shaft. As a general rule, if your glove size is a small, you need a paddle with a small shaft.
Lakes and rivers
If you’ll be paddling on lakes and slow-moving rivers, and spending a fair amount of time in your boat, a touring paddle would be a good choice. These paddles are the mainstay in kayak paddles and are good for day tripping, river-running, exploring and camping.
On the other hand, if you don’t think you’ll spend a lot of time on the water, you might think about a recreational paddle. This class of paddles is ideal for short trips, fishing, exercise, and shore exploration.
When paddling in shallow water, a plastic blade will provide you more durability as the blades hits gravel, sand and rocks. Many paddlers feel in these shallow conditions that a wider blade provides more bite even with half of the blade out of the water.
If, on the other hand, most of your paddling is in deep water, your blade shape and material are really a matter of the kind of stroke you prefer. See the following notes on your style of paddling (Step 5).
A kayak paddle with an ovalized shaft (vs. a perfectly round shaft) will allow you to orient the blades without looking and will be easier to hold and less fatiguing.
Extended trips on flat or moving water, including sea touring:
Again, if you’ll be spending a lot of time on the water, look at touring or performance paddles. Generally, as you move up the line in these types of paddles, the paddles will get lighter.
For long trips or for paddlers who suffer from sore shoulders, some experts recommend you choose a light weight paddle with fiberglass or carbon composite blades.
For those who find themselves often pushing off rocks, gravel and sandy bottoms, select a paddle with injection-molded blades made of nylon or polypropylene and typically reinforced with glass or carbon fibers. These paddles provide the perfect blend of weight and durability.
P.S. A kayak paddle is not a duck pole. It will like you more if you get out rather than bouncing on the tip of your paddle to get off the rock you’re stuck on.
True enthusiasts typically choose a paddle with a stiff, efficient and responsive carbon shaft. This dramatically reduces weight, allowing for longer paddling with less fatigue.
Whitewater
You’ll need a paddle here that can take some hard knocks. Paddlers who are into whitewater, adventure racing and sea touring may select a shorter paddle for these rougher conditions. Whitewater paddlers typically prefer a length of 205 cm or less for control.
Performance paddles – ultra light, high-tech paddles for the kayaking enthusiast who wants the latest paddling innovations.
Paddles are super lightweight to reduce their swing weight and lessen fatigue.
Blades are stiffer to deliver more power with each stroke.
Shafts are all-carbon.
Ferrules provide more feathering options.
Ergonomic designs and light weight materials reduce joint strain.
Different blade shapes deliver a different type of experience.
Touring paddles – durable, lightweight paddles that are still comfortable after a full day on the water.
Special nylon resins and blade designs make them light.
Blades are often reinforced with fiberglass or carbon, making them very durable.
Shafts are available in a range of options from fiberglass to carbon.
Ferrules provide more feathering options.
Different blade shapes deliver a different type of experience.
Recreational paddles – for short trips with your family or friends, fishing or shore exploring, these paddles are a great choice.
You’ll find that the lower-end of this paddle category is the heaviest and least-expensive kayak paddle. But, considering the number of strokes you’ll make in an outing usually makes a lighter-weight paddle worth the extra cost. A fiberglass shaft (vs. aluminum) can make a big weight difference.
Blades are typically injection-molded plastic resin and shafts are generally aluminum or fiberglass.
Ferrule is straight-forward without many frills.
Durable and affordable.
Whitewater paddles – built for durability, efficiency and quick cadence, they stand up to rugged conditions of whitewater use.
Wide blades for better bite.
Composite whitewater blades are light weight but not as durable as plastic injection-molded blades when hitting those unexpected underwater obstructions.
Carbon or fiberglass whitewater shafts are typically thicker to provide extra strength needed during whitewater use.
Depending on the type of use, whitewater paddles break regardless of the manufacture. A perfect design always balances weight versus strength for a given set of materials. Be prepared for the unexpected moments by carrying a compact, easy to store 4-piece paddle.
High-angle paddlers keep the shaft more vertical during their stroke (perpendicular to the water). These paddlers typically use a shorter, wider blade and a paddle with a shorter shaft. This more upright paddling style permits a more powerful, athletic stroke. Paddlers who prefer to use a fast cadence (whitewater, racers, touring with fast cadence) usually prefer this shorter shaft, wider blade paddle, too.
A low-angle paddler keeps the paddle relatively horizontal (parallel to the water). Paddlers who use this more relaxed, cruising stroke often find that a paddle with a longer, thinner blade is most energy efficient. In fact, this is the most common paddling style in North America.
To feather or not to feather… and if so, how much? Feathering is about how the two paddle blades offset each other. A blade without feathering (where the blades are parallel to each other) is easy on the wrists but hard to paddle in the wind. The face of the top blade pushes through the wind as the bottom blade is pulled through water. A blade that is feathered to 60° presents the edge of the top blade to the wind (vs. the face of the blade), so it’s more efficient when paddling against the wind. However, that degree of feather is harder on the wrists and can create sore joints. Many kayak paddles have adjustable ferrules that permit the paddler to adjust the feathering on-the-fly to fit the specific situation.
Most kayak paddles today can be feathered between 15° and 60°. 60° is most typical, except for whitewater paddlers, who usually use 30° to 45° because of the rough conditions they face.
For long trips or for paddlers who suffer from sore shoulders, some experts recommend you choose a light weight paddle with fiberglass or carbon composite blades.
A final word.
Whenever possible, try out a few paddle sizes and types before you commit. On-water demos held by many retailers are always a good way to try before you buy.
